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Your hotel in Lyon for the Festival of Lights

Welcome to the Fête des Lumières!

Every December, Lyon lights up and the city becomes a huge open-air theater of light.

A suspended moment of visual poetry, crowds in coats and mulled wine around every corner. Looking for a hotel for the Fête des Lumières in Lyon? The Phénix Hôtel, set right on the banks of the Saône in Vieux Lyon, is one of the best starting points for making the most of the event. We’ll tell you why… and slip in a few good tips, anecdotes and tourist traps to avoid.

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Credit: andreas brun

The Festival of
LightsWhere does it come from?

A little reminder to shine in society (or at the hotel breakfast table): the Fête des Lumières was born in 1852, to celebrate the installation of the statue of the Virgin Mary on Fourvière hill. The people of Lyon, blocked by the rain, improvised by placing candles in their windows. Since then, the tradition has continued, with a digital arts twist.

Today, it’s an international art event that attracts over 2 million visitors every year. Monumental installations, facade projections, sound creations… Every street corner can become a work of art. And every evening, the city goes dark, only to light up again.

A hotel
in the heart of the illuminations

Choosing the Phénix Hôtel to stay during the Fête des Lumières means sleeping in a setting that didn’t wait for December to shine. Renaissance building, exposed beams, rooms overlooking the Saône, a hushed ambience and discreet luxury: here, you fall asleep watching the reflections of the city dance in the water.

And the location couldn’t be better: right in the heart of Vieux Lyon, a stone’s throw from Saint-Paul, Fourvière and the Saint-Jean district, you’re literally in the center of the party without being in the middle of the hubbub. Just 5 minutes’ walk and you’re in the main arteries of the light trail. That’s what we call sleeping in the right place.

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The route Where are we going?

It’s hard to see it all in one evening.
So here’s our recommended itinerary, starting at Le Phénix!
Allow 2 to 3 hours for the walk, depending on your pace
and your resistance to the cold (and the crowds).

Place Saint-Jean

Depart from Place Saint-Jean for the cathedral projections: often a highlight.

The traboules

Take the traboules or the funicular up to Fourvière.

The quays of the Saône

Head back down to the Quais de Saône, often lively and magical.

Place des Terreaux

Then head for the Place des Terreaux, Hôtel de Ville and Opéra, a trio that can’t be ignored.

The peninsula

Finish off on the Presqu’île, from Place des Jacobins to Bellecour, where you’ll come across a few more discreet but no less impressive works.

Our practical tips (tested and approved)

Comfortable shoes: the cobblestones of Vieux Lyon are pretty, but treacherous. Leave the pumps at home.
Download the official map (or ask for it at the Phénix reception desk, we always have it).
Choose the early evening (from 7pm) or the very end (around 10:30pm) to avoid the crowds.
Beware of pickpockets: in the crowds, stay vigilant.
Beware of tempting restaurants along the route: prefer those recommended by real Lyonnais (or our team, we know the good spots).
Book your hotel early for the Fête des Lumières: from October onwards, rooms go quickly… very quickly.
The day before the start of the Fête, a test evening is planned for the illuminations, which is a good way to enjoy the Fête des Lumières without the inconvenience.

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Le petit + du
Phoenix during the party

During these four days, our hotel transforms itself into a warm refuge: hot drinks at the bar, a team at your service to advise you according to your desires and your luminous stamina.
And for those traveling with family or by bike (yes, even in December, they exist), our hotel has the Accueil Vélo label and is committed to CSR: we take care of you, and the planet too.

Want to visit other parts of Vieux Lyon? Here’s our selection of must-see places, stores and specialities.